Front Street

By John S. Kelemen

Here we are at the end of high season and it does seem to have been an abbreviated one, or is that only because time accelerates with the advancing years. It has been many years since I dined at Front Street and hard to recall when or why I stopped going there. Was it intimidation generated by the aura of high Zagat ratings and the difficulty of making reservations too far in advance or the handful of detractors that claimed it was overrated, too expensive, and that they were subject to rude treatment by the staff? As I recall it was more a matter of a huge bill generated by my bar tab in days of olde. No matter, on this eve of Labor Day 2008, Tfor3 proclaims a tabularasa as we go forward to experience the real Front Street.

Michael the Blogger (MB) called several days in advance seeking reservations for 7:30 PM on Sunday evening and was told that the best they could do was 5:30. Using his silver tongue real estate techniques to best advantage he was able to get the time moved to 6:15 PM thus allowing 45 more precious minutes at tea dance. The group included three more people in addition to MB and JSK; meat and potatoes Rich (MPR), skinflint Mark (SM), and the return of MB’s long lost friend, crazy Tony (CT). We were all seated promptly and courteously at precisely 6:15 PM.

We had a corner booth in the rustic ground level dining room of a stately old Victorian house which is well hidden by the tourist shops along the street. The restaurant was crowded with early diners, however, the layout and structural separation between tables allows a good degree of privacy. Our waiter was fast and professional with quick delivery of beverages and warm bread and a rather skimpy little dipping dish of olive oil which was quickly sopped up by our table of five. Unfortunately the much praised Foccia bread was not available. Starters included the special Zucchini Florets for SM, Bruschetta with melted feta cheese for MPR, Pasta e Fageoli for CT, and Mussels Fra Diablo shared by MB and JSK. All of the starters were very good except for the mussels which were somewhat dry.

Service of entrees was timely but definitely not rushed. House salad was served with most meals. The feta cheese dressing was tasty but not enough to add interest to a basically uninteresting salad. Entrees included Salmon for MB, Veal Parmigiana for MPR, Sirloin Steak for CT, and the Tea Smoked Duck for SM and JSK. Everyone thought their entrée excellent. The duck was easily one of the best dishes I have ever had in Provincetown or anywhere else.

Dinner was topped off with coffee and two shared desserts. The Pear and White Chocolate Bread Pudding was very good and Front Street’s signature Coffee Toffee Pie is heaven for anyone with a sweet tooth. The dinner bill was similar to any of the restaurants in town of comparable genre. 

In summation: the food was good to outstanding, service excellent, presentation good, prices in keeping with a restaurant of its class and the atmosphere comfortable and warm. Tfor3 rates Front Street four and one half Provincetown Monuments out of a possible five. (IV ½).

Front Street
230 Commercial Street
508 487-9715