Bistro 404

By John S. Kelemen

Bistro 404 opened up this past season after a long hiatus since Chester Restaurant shut its doors and left the location empty and forlorn for approximately two years. Since the restaurant opened we have been hearing both high praise and also some less than glowing comments about Provincetown’s latest member in the class of fine dining. The restaurant occupies the ground floor and front patio of one of the more elegant and stately buildings on Commercial Street. T for 3 actually was a party of three this time as I joined Michael the Blogger and his nephew Mark for our 7:30 PM reservation in a dining room that is definitely one of most comfortable and warm eating venues in town.

The atmosphere remained picture perfect as we ordered our drinks. Our waiter was professionally efficient throughout. We were not particularly taken aback by the prices on the menu which were in keeping with the old Chester Restaurant and the level of food preparation and attention. Starters included lobster bisque for Mark, and shared pate’ de foie gras and shrimp & crab cake for two of us. All were delicious and definitely not common fare. We had hoped to try the signature Bistro 404 roasted oysters but they were not available.

Entrees included filet mignon for Mark, lobster for Michael, who had to forgo his usual salmon which was not available, and the Halibut for yours truly. The seafood dishes were served with Tuscan bean and a roast asparagus combination that complimented them extremely well. Coffee was accompanied by desserts including a chocolate cake, NY type cheesecake, and a custard tart with blueberries. The presentation was highly artistic in the best nouvelle cuisine fashion.

There is no doubt in my mind that Bistro 404 is off to a really good start. A few minor criticisms include the small size of the portions for both appetizers and entrees. I respect the artistry and effort that goes into the preparation of a very elegant meal but with our financial world collapsing around us we also want the quantity with the quality. Three little pieces of bread served to three diners smacks of skimpy even when served with nice warm butter.

In summation Tfor3 found Bistro 404 to be a welcome new addition to our family of restaurants. Whatever kinks remain will surely be worked out by good management and an excellent chef. The food is outstanding, presentation excellent, service very good, atmosphere elegant and prices not too brutal. Compliments and welcome to Bistro 404 with four full Provincetown monuments from Table for 3. (IIII)