The Red Inn

By John S. Kelemen

On a clear crisp Thursday evening earlier this month I met with two friends at a popular Whaler’s Wharf restaurant for dinner. The discussion naturally turned to the impending season and the many gastronomic opportunities that Provincetown has to offer. Restaurants old and new, large and small, fancy and tacky were all dished (only a few were actually dissed).

Those of us who have lived and/or vacationed in town for many years develop our preferences for one eatery over another for a myriad of reasons and tend to frequent the same places over and over again. We three have decided to forget any pre-formed opinions and try a different restaurant a week over the next several months. We will eat our way from West to East and hopefully give some worthwhile tips for dining in our home town. To establish an impartial criterion we chose five guidelines which include food, presentation, service, atmosphere, and price. A perfect score earns five MONUMENTS (I I I I I).

Our first dinner of the new season was at the Red Inn on Thursday evening before Memorial Day Weekend. The Red Inn is a venerable West End flagship. In the 1980’s yours truly always packed the vacation suitcase with one necktie and pressed shirt for the requisite dining experience at The Red Inn. For reasons not worth going into The Red Inn’s gold star fame and fortune tarnished a bit for a while but shines brightly again since the start of the new millennium under its latest ownership.

Upon arrival we were shown to our table by a friendly hostess and introduced to our waiter. Our table was in the waterfront dining room with a full view of the beach, harbor, and Long Point. Many restaurants in town offer waterfront dining however few can offer the panorama experienced in this location.

We started with appetizers including the Crispy Panko Crusted Shrimp and Steamed Clams. The shrimp were excellent. The clams were just a little bit gritty however the clam broth was delicious and provided an outstanding bread dip. The bread and butter provided were not fine dining worthy and need to be improved to complement the menu.

Entrees included the Pork Chop and Halibut special. The Pork Chop was outstanding. The fish was good but not particularly special or uniquely prepared though served on a bed of orzo that was very tasty. Presentation was good to excellent. Service was good.

Dinner was topped off with coffee and a sampling of desserts which included a chocolate fudge pie, cheese cake, and bread pudding. The desserts were all wonderful with the bread pudding about the best that this old eater has ever tasted.

Pricing was reasonable for a restaurant with The Red Inn’s reputation and the ambiance it has to offer. The current sticker shock that many of us are experiencing from soup to nuts was not particularly glaring at this restaurant. The atmosphere was great. Keep in mind that some of the same attributes that lend the waterfront room its charm, such as low ceilings and hardwood floors can also lend themselves to a very loud and dissonant dining experience when the tables are all full. Those seeking a quiet romantic dining atmosphere might want to forego the view for one of the other lovely fireplace dining rooms. 

It’s just the opinion of three but kudos and four full monuments (IIII) to The Red Inn for what looks like another great season at 15 Commercial St. ( 508 487-7334)